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The south west coast of Upolu has a few small traditional fishing villages off the main road which are great places to experience traditional Samoan life. At Saanapu, there's a peaceful board walk across protected mangrove forests which can be extensively explored by kayak hired from the local villages. You can stay at Saanapu Wetlands Retreat to really explore this unique environment. The forest is an excellent place for bird watching and solitude.
Beyond Sa'anapu Village there is mile upon mile of gorgeous palm fringed sandy beaches and snorkelling lagoons. This coast is inaccessible by road (except for one small track to Salamumu Village and Sa'Moana Resort) and offers a truly pristine beach environment. Virgin Cove is an excellent set-up on a secluded beach along the south-west coast of Upolu. There is a rough track through the tropical forest leading to the beach fales, but most tourists get dropped at Sa'anapu and walk along the beach for ten minutes to reach Virgin Cove. There are just eight traditional fales here, ensuring intimacy, with an excellent restaurant serving local food and several nice touches like fresh ground coffee and sun (warm) showers. However, there's no village environment near-by so this is for beach lovers and naturalists only.
It's possible to walk from Virgin Cove along the entire south western coast passing secluded beach after secluded beach. After an hour walk, you'll reach Sa'Moana Resort, an up-market surfing resort on a small cove beach flanked by striking black rocks. Sa'Moana offers the best surf guides and equipment in Samoa but ironically it is not very close to the best surfing breaks - guests often wake up ay 4am to drive one-hour to Maninoa and then take the boat out to Boulders and Coconuts.
The beach extends from Salamumu for several more miles passing the quiet Matareva Beach (road access) and culminating at the aptly named Return to Paradise Beach (road access). Basic beach fales are available at both beaches but all provisions must be taken including water for drinking and showering. Day trippers will have to pay a custom fee of about ST$5 per person for access to these beaches.
The west coast of Upolu offers more coastal villages, splendid mountain and coastal views but few beaches and no accommodation. However, you can take a side trip to lovely Manono Island, just 20-minutes by boat, where Vaotuua Beach Fales offer wonderful over-the-water fale accommodation, traditional village life and archaeological relics await your discovery.
... more about Manono Island and Apolima Island
The ferries for Savaii depart from Mulifanua Wharf. A few minutes walk to the north is the Samoan Village Beach Resort with views of Manono Island and a small cove beach in protected harbour. The resort is aimed at older couples with spacious bungalows in a large coconut grove.
Just before you reach Faleolo International Airport on the north west tip of Upolu is the new Aggie Grey Beach Resort. Set in over 200 acres of coconut groves, the resort has several small beaches overlooking the flat lagoon towards Manono Island and Savaii. The north east coast of Upolu between Falealo Airport and Apia Town is the most densely populated region in Samoa with an almost endless parade of villages lining the coastal road. Here you'll find lots of large churches, natural swimming pools alongside the rocky coastline, views of domineering tafua crater, outrigger canoes in the water, traditional village life, tattooing and touch rugby, but no tourist accommodation ... Samoans only.
... back to Apia
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