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Coming back towards the coast from Sopoaga Waterfall, the main road continues for almost 10-miles adjacent to the south coast of Upolu but half-a-mile or so inland passing lots of tracks leading to small traditional villages. Just before the O Le Pupu Pue National Park is a turn off to Ili'ili Village where you can stay at the tranquil Mativa Treehouse. This secluded spot faces Nuusafee Island which can be accessed by kayak - Nuuasafee is a tiny coral island with excellent snorkelling, white sand beaches and excellent surfing in the passage.
O le Pupu-Pue National Park has several lovely hiking trails that meander inland through the forest and towards the coast through low-lying vegetation and leading to more secluded beaches. The lovely setting at the Togitogiga waterfall - several small falls running into deep pools which are excellent for jumping into - is a popular picnic spot with shower and changing facilities (a rarity in Samoa). Just beyond the park is a rough 4WD track leading to Aganoa Black Sand Beach off which is the popular "Coconuts" surfing break.
The cross island road from Apia joins the south coast road at Siumu Village where you'll find an unusual red sand beach. A few miles to the west is Maninoa Beach, with its fine white sand and tropical palm fringed scenery with an exquisite shallow sandy bottom lagoon. There are two small luxury beach resorts at Maninoa - Coconuts Resort and Sinalei Reef Resort - with the budget Maninoa Beach Fales situated between the two. Surfing and scuba diving off Maninoa are both excellent and Moanalei Divers offers both diving and surfing tours as well as sunset cruises.
Beyond Maninoa is a string of traditional Samoan villages spread out along the coastal highway - a good place to see Samoan life.
... on to the south west coast
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