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Heading east from Apia, the coast is tropical and rugged with pleasant mountain views and small villages along the rivers. The main highway hugs the coastline as it meanders from bay to bay. There are several picturesque beaches along this coast although few swimming beaches, the most picturesque being that facing tiny Albatross Island. A few km down the road is Piula Cave at Fatumea where a natural fresh water swimming pool sits right beside the sea and beneath a huge outcrop of rock upon which a Methodist church was built earlier this century.
From Piula, the coastal highway cuts inland. At the picturesque Falefa Falls, a small paved off-road follows the coast to Utuloa Point passing some of the best accessible coastal scenery in Samoa. The paved road ends at the attractive village of Saletele, but you can walk right around Fagalua Bay along a rough dirt track to the village of Taelefaga where you can either rejoin the main highway or continue on to the wonderful village of Uafato. This is one of the most attractive coastal walks in Samoa but you'll need a full day to make it at a relaxed pace. Uafato Conservation Reserve has some of the last remaining natural tropical forests in Samoa and bird life thrives. This is also the home of the Samoan wood carvers and you can stay with Loi, one of the best woodcarvers at Sina's Beach Fales. Uafato can also be reached by bus from Apia (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat only).
The main highway by-passes this wonderful remote area and heads inland weaving up the mountains and over La Mafa Pass where excellent views can be seen towards the coast.
... on to the south east coast
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