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The highway rejoins the coast at the south-eastern point of Upolu. This stretch of coast is very traditional with pretty seaside villages, steep mountains and views of the Aleipata Islands which sit a few miles offshore. Lalomanu Village has a spectacular beach setting with fine white sand, excellent swimming and snorkelling in its shallow turquoise lagoon and lots of beach fale options. Facing this region are four offshore islands, all uninhabited, within the main reef about 10 minutes by boat off the Upolu coastline.
It's possible to kayak out to these islands on an organised tour with EcoTour Samoa or you can stay at Namua Beach Fales on the uninhabited Namua island and have them ferry you out there for free. At low tide you can walk around the coastline to the spectacular cliff bound back beach where you can spot sea birds nesting in the cliffs.
On the south-eastern tip of Upolu facing Nuutele Island is the picturesque beach at Lalomanu. The fine white sand and turquoise waters make this one of the more popular spots for travellers and locals alike (can be crowded at weekends).
Lalomanu Beach is a truly spectacular setting on the south east tip of Upolu with stunning mountains, offshore islands and fine white sands. There are four separate beach fale properties here, strung out in a line along the beachfront, of which only one is recommended for the service they offer tourists and the good food served at their restaurant. The only way to tell them apart is from the style of the fale. Our pick is Taufua Beach Fales which offers open sided beach bungalows right on the beach as well as several enclosed fales offering more privacy and more protection from unexpected heavy downpours. Scuba diving is offered onsite and the covered aluminum boat takes guests to the fantatsic dive sites around the aleipata islands - the best diving in Samoa. Taufua offers lovely views of the offshore islands but the place is often overcrowded anmd the setting is rather cramped. Stay here for a few days to make the most of the setting but move on to other fales along the south coast for a more traditional and secluded atmosphere. Letia Sini's is another popular choice and offers enclosed wooden boxes (painted in glaring blue and get stuffy and hot at night) right on the beach but the food is not great and the public bar, which is popular with locals, can be boisterous. Lalomanu is in a village setting with the main road cutting between it and the beach fales and can get crowded at weekends (by Samoan standards) when locals come for the day to splash around and drink beer.
The coast between Lalomanu and Saleapaga is one of the most scenic in Samoa with views of the razor-back mountain ridges and of secluded wild beaches. Before you reach Saleapaga Village, you come to Boomerang Creek, a small beach resort with fales in the hills overlooking the ocean and a couple of enclosed fales on a narrow grassy stretch of land sandwiwched between the road and the rocky coastline. A few minutes walk towards Saleapaga Village the beach becomes sandy and better for swimming. The road between the two villages coast is the quietest stretch on Upolu and is a good place for walking, taking about an hour and a half. At Saleapaga Village is another excellent swimming beach and the popular Faofao Beach Fales with great views back to Nuutele Island and offering airy traditional beach fales.
One of the nicest beaches on Upolu is at Vava'u, a secluded beach down a small dirt track several miles beyond Saleapaga Village. Vava'u Beach Fales are a little more up-market but retaining a budget price tag. The fales are enclosed, of wooden walls and with corrugated iron roofs so are not "traditional" beach fales. However, the beach setting is truly wonderful and the fales, being self-contained and with veranda, give a sense of intimacy. The main feature here is the gorgeous beach setting, with good snorkelling and swimming in a protected bay enclosed by a limestone island. There's a restaurant serving good food (a little on the expensive side) and complimentary kayaks. This is a great option for couples and those looking for a bit more privacy.
The main highway cuts inland and winds up the mountain a few miles to the lookout at Sopo'aga Falls which drops 200 feet into the valley floor beneath.
... on to the south coast
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