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The wharf and main airport at Savai'i are at Salelologa on the south east corner. Salelologa is a functional town for the islanders - a few bars, supermarkets and garages - but has little to offer tourists except for its colourful market. There are a couple of cheap restaurants and a few motel style accommodations in town aimed primarily at travelling Samoans.
The greatest attraction of the region is the Tafua Peninsula to the south of town with its huge accessible crater and splendid wild coastal views. The hike around Tafua Crater takes approximately an hour from its base. On the south-western side of the peninsula is the lovely Ananoa Beach with its excellent offshore surfing and the Ananoa Beach Fales. A few miles on is the turn off for AfuAau Waterfall. This refreshing waterfall plummets from virgin forest into a deep natural and fresh swimming pool. The track is difficult to navigate unless you have 4-WD but from the main highway it's just a half hour walk inland. About 20 minutes drive further down this inland track is the fascinating Pulemelei Mound, the largest archaeological site in Polynesia. The grand pyramid here is more than 60 metres in length and rises to a height of 15 metres.
The east coast of Savaii is the most developed stretch with some lovely traditional villages and extraordinarily large churches, and several picturesque beaches and snorkelling lagoons - this is the place to visit to immerse yourself in Samoan village life, which comes alive at sun down. There are a couple of budget hotels just north of Salelologa Town. The Savaiian Hotel is a run down property facing the sea but the coastline here is dull. Slightly further north on the inland side of the road is the Safua Hotel offering duplex and individual bungalows in an attractive garden setting but the atmosphere here is rather drab. There's an attrcative swimming beach between the villages of Faga and Lano about a 20-minute drive from Salelologa.
... on to the north coast of Savaii
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